My first visit to A nuż widelec hadn’t gone to plan – I’d been assisting on a photo shoot on a blazing hot day and just wanted a beer in the shade: and pay for it with plastic. But it wasn’t going to happen. “We’ve only been open a week,” apologized the owner, “so no cards and we’re still waiting for our alcohol license.” Aha. But in spite of this wobble I’d seen enough to know I’d be back.
You see, it’s a place that makes an immediate first impression. Or more pertinently, the garden does: a magical multi-layered terrace of white-painted timber, cutesy flowerpots and colorful cushions. Unfortunately, by the time Visit No. 2 came to be the sky was as grey as a pair of wet y-fronts. But you don’t need good weather to enjoy Widelec. The charm extends indoors, to a small dining room decked out with wooden tables, patches of brickwork and potted herbs.
Then there’s the blackboard menu, adjusted to the whims of the chef and the vagaries of the weather. With this in mind, the ginger and carrot soup is a good call, soaking up my excesses of the evening prior. Deliciously deep, it’s given subtle complexity with the addition of raspberry sauce, coriander and a pinch of sunflower seeds. Next is a main of grilled pork served on carrots. There’s nothing smarty pants about it, rather it’s cooking you understand and appreciate. It’s something a doting mother would make. And finally, dessert, a gooey wave of sweetness comprised of blueberries, strawberries and cream. The serving is generous but never overwhelming, while the tastes are exceptional. There’s a simplicity and truth to this cooking, not to mention a personalized touch. They haven’t tried to rewrite the rule book, instead you sense a place that contents itself by putting out food made with love. (AW)