Another month and another magical discovery on the kebab front…
When we proclaimed Fazir to be Poland’s best kebab last month we unwittingly unleashed something of a war. “So you’ve visited every kebab store in the country,” scoffed one unhappy critic; “bullshit,” opined another. And gosh, that was in public – you should have seen the inbox.
Anyhow, in moments like that it’s natural to get defensive: to dig in and stick your fingers in your ears. That said, it does pay to listen, for every once in a while you’ll receive a few tips that you’d never otherwise have heard – and in this case, that came to mean Amun.
The bad news (yep, there’s always some), is that like Fazir this kebab store isn’t central. In fact, similar to Fazir, it’s not even inside Warsaw’s city boundaries. Found in the western satellite town of Pruszków, it’s a ten-minute south-easterly walk from the station, and just a sharp whistle from the scenic Park Potulickich.
Much like any other high street kebab joint is your answer. Looking bare and bluish-grey, the outward sterility is offset by the big welcome that hails you on entry. Regardless, it’s a spartan room whose décor doesn’t go beyond a fridge, squeaky clean floor tiles and a blackboard menu perched above the counter.
So yes, what of the food. Like Fazir, the big schtick here is a charcoal-fired grill over which you’ll find two rotating skewers of lamb and chicken. This alone is something worth the return ticket to Pruszków.
Giving the meat a heavy, smoky intensity, your kebab is further enhanced by fresh vegetables and cabbage that feels almost fermented – this rich, tart tang works brilliantly with the meat while the homemade sauces tie up the experience. Spicy but never overpowering, the hot sauce comes recommended for those that like their kebab to come with a fiery personality.
Peaking at zł. 23 for the ‘mega size’ (which, in truth, can be eaten easily in a sitting by those with a more masculine appetite), the kebabs here are very good indeed, whilst other dishes koftas, falafel, shawarmas and kebab boxes loaded to the gunnels with meat, chips and salad.
An excellent stop-off if you’re in this neck of the world, it’s interesting that Warsaw now boast two brilliant charcoal-cooked kebabs sitting on its east and west flank – but is it not now time for something like this to debut in the center? Or is there already?
ul. B. Prusa 48 (Pruszków), facebook