Ever since opening four years back, Atelier Amaro has come to be regarded as a point of pilgrimage to which diners flock to worship at the temple of Amaro. This is not an exaggeration. Awarded what was then Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, Atelier Amaro is so much more than a mere restaurant: this is the spiritual home of Poland’s culinary revolution.
The attention is immediately apparent with the amuse bouche: in this instance ‘mushroom sticks’ and wafer thin black pudding.
A sensational tomato consomme is served with verbena and sauerkraut.
There is also a bonus: an off-the-menu sea trout tartar with marinated carrot, horse radish and essence of raspberry.
Eel that has been grilled and smoked comes next, and is served with an ice cold bowl of crunchy avocado, dill, watercress. Amazing.
Then it’s moose tartar with wild strawberries in mushroom powder.
Halibut with a red pepper mousse is a highlight that’s upped only by what comes next…
Beef, boletus and wood sorrel. Ten out of ten.
Dessert does not let the side down: despite looking like a pear, that’s actually a herbal mousse that’s as good as it looks. A fitting end to a glorious afternoon.
(words & photos: AW)
