As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank – it’s thanks to this, not to mention the proximity of Tel Aviv café across the road, this stretch of bars finds itself playfully known as The Gaza Strip.