You know within five minutes whether a restaurant has soul. Not because of the lighting, the playlist or the chef’s social media following. You know because somebody cares enough to make things properly. The bread is baked in-house. The pasta is rolled by hand. The fries are cut from actual potatoes. The people serving you seem genuinely pleased that you’ve walked through the door. Supperlardo has that kind of soul.
In a dining scene increasingly crowded with concepts, Supperlardo feels refreshingly unconcerned with trends. The focus here is on craft, hospitality and ingredients that speak for themselves. The meat comes from a farm owned by friends of the proprietor, and the difference is immediately noticeable. This is beef with flavour, texture and character, not the anonymous commercial product that dominates too many restaurant menus.
Even the drinks list reflects the kitchen’s attention to detail. Those skipping alcohol should seek out the La Maison N.9 Sparkling Tea, a sophisticated alternative that delivers the complexity and celebratory feel of fine wine without a drop of alcohol. Crisp, aromatic and balanced, it pairs surprisingly well with much of the menu.
Everything is made on-site, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the ravioli dauphine. Coated in brown butter and finished with fresh chives, they are deceptively simple. Rich, delicate and deeply satisfying, they arrive arranged in a presentation that manages to be both rustic and memorable. One plate is enough to make you consider signing up for pasta lessons with somebody’s nonna.
Long-time fans will remember the fried chicken sandwich from Supperlardo’s pre-pandemic incarnation. Thankfully, it remains every bit as good as memory suggests. The crust crackles with an almost absurd level of crunch, as though it has somehow been fried multiple times while preserving every ounce of moisture inside. It is the sort of sandwich that silences conversation.
The standout dish on this visit is the New York strip steak au poivre. Cooked with precision, the steak arrives alongside seasonal green asparagus coated in a creamy Maltese sauce. Similar to hollandaise but brightened with citrus, the sauce adds richness and freshness in equal measure, complementing the beef without stealing its thunder.
And then there are the fries. House-made, golden and served with aioli, they are so outrageously good that Supperlardo could probably open a second restaurant devoted entirely to them.
What ultimately separates Supperlardo from many of its peers, however, is the hospitality. Our waiter was warm, knowledgeable and effortlessly friendly. The whole experience felt less like dining out and more like sharing a beer with a friend who happens to have exceptional taste in food.
ul. Chmielna 13A (City Center)
