The word ‘institution’ is over-used, to the point it’s become trivialized. But if there’s one restaurant in Warsaw worthy of such a term, then let that be the Belvedere.

Now back in the mid-90s, when the Insider was in shorts and starting off in the world, the city was a Mordor-like place cast from Soviet concrete. Since then it’s been polished, paved, brushed and buffed. Yet even before this remarkable rehabilitation, there were glimpses of what it could become – and that was provided by Belvedere.

Long recognized as one of nation’s top restaurants, its historic location has always been a boon: a 150 year old imperial orangery complete with nonchalant peacocks and curious squirrels. Even in those dark days, there was a fairytale quality to this stately venue. But a magical location is not a guarantee of much. Belvedere’s success stems from a refusal to sit back and rest on its laurels.

Last year saw the interiors reinvigorated by acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, giving Belvedere a contemporary look while never losing sight of its roots and tradition. And providing the perfect match is a menu authored by Adam Komar. His modern interpretations of classic Polish cooking are a joy, and best admired via a tasting menu that’s noted for its complex twists and original eye.

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie

ul. Agrykoli 1, www.belvedere.com.pl