Brainfarm has evolved. When it first appeared on Solec, Warsaw’s self-described first biohacking café and bistro felt more like a very stylish experiment: functional mushrooms slipped into coffee and matcha, powders and extracts lurking in pralines and desserts. Lion’s mane, cordyceps, tremella, reishi and chaga were the vocabulary. Now, the experiment has grown into a proper restaurant—one where you can comfortably begin with breakfast and find yourself contemplating dinner.

We’ve made a habit of the mornings. Fluffy eggs and bacon arrive on toast, chopped chives seemingly rained down from above, alongside the Strawberry Vanilla Foam Matcha: green, creamy and capped with a strawberry-vanilla cloud that makes wellness look suspiciously like dessert.

Lunch can be virtuous without feeling punitive. A Power Bowl of cauliflower pakora and tabbouleh has crunch, herbs and enough substance to keep you away from the biscuit drawer, especially washed down with a probiotic lemonade sharpened with yuzu and umeboshi.

But dinner is where Brainfarm’s evolution becomes most convincing. The roast beef with lovage sauce, MCT mayo and lion’s mane powder is terrific: the beef almost silky in texture, with the fresh green lovage delivering a slick, herbaceous kick. A glass of Papa Roc from France melds beautifully into the whole thing. Keto food rarely gets to have this much fun.

And then there are those outside tables on Solec. They transform Brainfarm from somewhere you visit for functional coffee, matcha, hōjicha, ube and mushroom-powered desserts into somewhere you simply want to stay. The biohacking might get you through the door. Increasingly, it’s the cooking that brings you back.