Background

Opened seven-years ago, Dyletanci became a calling card for the new face of Powiśle. Lured by the intriguing wines assembled by owner Maciej Sondaj and the author’s cuisine of Rafał Hreczaniuk, few places better embodied the fresh, ambitious nature of this upcoming district. But all good things come to an end – with the building sold from under them, Dyletanci found themselves on the move this summer.

Now…

They’ve hit the ground running. Immediately settling in to a new premises inside the cool, semi-secretive courtyard behind Pl. Konstytucji, the new venue comes with an updated aesthetic that looks subtle and stylish: muted, neutral colours offset by pops of art. Amid the light woods and sky-coloured walls, the number of neatly arranged wines attest to Sondaj’s reputation as a wine importer and vineyard owner.

In The Kitchen

Few chefs can boast the talent of Rafał Hreczaniuk. Looking like he’s just checked in from a rock concert, his personality is expressed on the plate via eclectic dishes that feel nuanced yet never lack in bold, adventurous tastes. This is premium dining, with a la carte choices including wagyu with oyster mushrooms (PLN 390 for 100 grams) or lamb, carrot and black garlic (PLN 170).

Daily Special

It’s easy to spend big in Dyletanci, but the lunch specials offer the chance to dine exquisitely at a fraction of the standard cost. Priced at PLN 75 for three-courses (choose from two starters, two mains, and one dessert), on the Insider’s visit that meant us going for a chilled tomato soup with crayfish – wow, we’d have paid PLN 75 for that alone. As for mains, squid rings, cucumber and ginger came with a playful Asian punch that reveal much about the chef’s flair. As for the final flourish, a caramel cream with peach and mead provides a smooth, sophisticated landing. If this is the quality of the lunch deal, then we can’t wait to get back to sample a la carte. Have no doubt, this is a place belonging in the very top echelon of Poland’s gastro ladder.