Eating Out: The Eatery
FeaturesRestaurantsReviews 21 May 2023 Insider 0
Moving to a more central GPS, The Eatery’s migration is good news for the city…
Looking back at 2021, one of our undisputed gastro highlights was the discovery of The Eatery. Among other words, we called it “bloody brilliant”, “fabulous”, and “the most unexpected surprise of the year”. Yep, we enjoyed it. But how many times did we return? You’ve guessed it: a big, fat zero.
As per the old real estate cliché, it’s all about ‘location, location, location’, and that was the one thing lacking where The Eatery was concerned – set in Warsaw’s far eastern hinterlands, it was only convenient if you had access to a chopper. So how’s this for good news: moving earlier in the year, The Eatery now has an address that couldn’t be more central if it tried.
Planted in a courtyard between Pl. Konstytucji and elegant Lwowska, The Eatery’s Koszykowa address is an enviable one. Counting Uki Green and Back Room Bar among its neighbours, this renovated pre-war building already has no shortage of on-edge check-ins. The addition of The Eatery to this attractive off-street space feels like the final feather-in-the-cap.
Swathed in white-on-white colours, The Eatery feels almost holistic in its vibe. With the blinds drawn down – even in daytime – you’re left to bask in an atmosphere that feels blissfully cocooned from the outside world.
Decorated with orb-like installations and splashes of dappled granite surfaces, it looks chic and elegant yet also casual and welcoming. What could easily have become a sterile, laboratory-style space feels anything but. For more private moments, meanwhile, reserve the downstairs chamber – a nook that’s well segregated from the main dining room on ground level.
Modern Polish is the official line with products sourced from cult foodie hunting grounds such as the Szembeka market. Succinct in its size, the menu is about finessed compositions that riff in tune with the prevailing look. Deeply enjoyable, we started with panko-crusted potato served with creamy cottage cheese, charlock and chives, a dish inspired by the culinary heritage of Poznań.
With mains, its hard not to be impressed by the pork cheeks, served with a fittingly punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquefied peas and red cabbage. And praise the lord when it comes to dessert – in our case, a deliciously runny cranberry kissel crowned with cream and cotton-like strands of halvah.
The move to the city centre has not impacted the prices – in terms of Value For Money, it’s hard to think of another Warsaw restaurant that delivers so much at quite the same cost. On our visit at least, there was nothing marked beyond the PLN 50 barrier, a miracle given the inflationary pressures faced by all.
The Eatery have maintained the same excellence as before, and perhaps even finessed it a little. With no identifiable weak points, this fully deserves to become one of Warsaw’s true champions. Moreover, it feels ideal for multi-purpose: whether that be date night, a business bash or, in our case, a hit-and-run meal on a drizzly afternoon. Whatever your needs, The Eatery fulfils them.
Koszykowa 49A, theeatery.pl
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