Insider: You were among the first to give Stare Bielany a kind of French soul. What was your thinking when you opened Café de la Poste in 2013? And how have things changed since?

Tatiana Frémond: Wow, thank you—that’s such an honor to hear! We opened Café de la Poste in 2013, which feels like a lifetime ago in gastronomic terms. Back then, gastronomy was far less professionalized. I had zero experience, a tight budget, and just a lot of passion. Today, it’s an entirely different game—much more competitive and investment-driven. If you didn’t evolve, you simply disappeared.
In 2019, I left my corporate job to focus entirely on the café. I applied the systems and strategies I’d learned in the corporate world, which really helped us grow. During COVID, we leaned heavily on online sales and ended up growing by 40% in 2020, then 120% in 2021. It was incredible.

La Môme is located in Sadyba, a sleepy neighborhood south of the center. Why did you open there, and how does the place differ from Café de la Poste?

La Môme is a continuation of what I started with Café de la Poste. The kitchen at the café is tiny, so I always felt limited. I wanted to offer more of the casual, everyday French food I missed—dishes you’d find at your neighborhood bistro in France.
When the former Nabo space became available in Sadyba, I saw a chance to expand. Like Bielany, Sadyba is a calm, self-contained neighborhood where time feels slower. I often say these places are a kind of refuge for tired souls. There’s no rush, no pressure—just life at its own pace.

Do you see yourself as a kind of French cultural ambassador?

Yes, definitely. I’m French with Polish roots—my mother is Polish—and I’ve always wanted to share French culture in an authentic way. Sadly, France has lost some of its cultural shine in Poland. French used to be taught widely and was seen as prestigious. Now, it’s rare in schools. People flock to Italy or Spain for vacations, while France is seen as expensive and distant, partly because of the language barrier.
But I see a change. Many of our customers are true francophiles. They crave something real and soulful, not touristy clichés. I want to show that French people aren’t all pretentious—we’re warm, joyful, and crazy about good food. Nothing makes me happier than seeing guests at La Môme or the café laughing and enjoying life, just like back home.

La Môme has a strong emotional story behind it. Can you explain the name and what inspired it?

La Môme means “the kid” or “little girl” in French—it was Edith Piaf’s nickname. It evokes working-class charm and simplicity. I wanted to show a different side of French cuisine—less frogs’ legs and foie gras, more panisses from Marseille or a bavette steak with silky purée, like we serve.

These are the dishes I grew up with. I knew Polish people would love them too. There’s something honest and comforting about this food—it brings people together.

Have the neighborhoods around Café de la Poste and La Môme changed?

Absolutely. Café de la Poste helped awaken Stare Bielany. Now there’s Dej, Yatta Ramen, Mystic Pizza, art galleries—it’s full of life. The neighborhood has its own identity, though I think it still lacks a good sit-down restaurant scene. More ambitious dining concepts are tough sells here; affordable options like ramen and pizza dominate.

Sadyba is quieter. La Môme has a good evening crowd, especially in summer. We’re close to Wilanów and Konstancin, so we attract people who love great food and wine but don’t want to go downtown.

Your spaces feel intimate, warm, and timeless. Is that part of the plan?

Thank you! Honestly, I always thought of myself as a bit messy. But I love flea markets—the “brocantes” in France—and I bring that spirit back with me every time I visit. La Môme has that same warmth. We used a playful “Petit Nicolas” style for the branding, and mixed in antique signage and cozy décor. The goal was to make people feel immediately that they were in a true French bistro.

What makes a dining experience unforgettable to you?

Surprise! I’ll never forget a dinner in Lyon 30 years ago when the chef served a rare fish he’d just sourced. It was unexpected, and I still remember the taste. That’s the kind of magic I want to bring to La Môme. It might be something simple—like mashed potatoes prepared over three hours, inspired by a two-star chef—but it leaves a mark. I also love telling stories about the food. It turns dinner into an experience.

Has your relationship with food changed?

As guests have become more informed and adventurous, I’ve raised my own standards. Every tasting, supper club, and themed event has to be spot on—great product, great story. The Polish public is ready for that. I even brought in Rothschild truffle brie once—500 zł/kg! When I saw people loving it, I thought, “Yes, this is what I want to do with my life.”

What do you hope people say when they leave La Môme?

“Oh my god, that was amazing! We have to come back next week—call John and Mary right now!” [laughs] That kind of spontaneous joy—that’s what I’m after.

What advice would you give someone starting a restaurant now?

Location, location, location. Don’t overspend on décor—you won’t get that money back. Instead, invest in solid kitchen equipment and build a team that can grow with you. Keep your concept simple and consistent. Start small—limited hours, limited menu. And stay humble. Around 80% of places close within five years. Arrogance is the biggest mistake I see.

Do you cook at home?

I love cooking, but with four kids, I really appreciate the school lunch system! During the week, we eat simple things. On weekends, I go back to traditional French comfort food. That said, my kitchen team cooks better than I do—no shame in admitting it! My kids even said our steak haché is better than what we’ve had in France. And they’re right—it’s hard to find good food at a fair price, even there.

Are there regions of France you particularly draw from?

I’m inspired by early 20th-century bistro culture—those classic bouillons that served great food at accessible prices. I also love the vibe in Marseille and Biarritz. People there live with joy and lightness. I try to bring some of that energy here with events and regional specials.