Businesses have been fleeting at this particular location in Stara Papiernia, an old-paper mill located in the heart of Konstancin. But it looks like Fusion Café is here to stay. Warsaw teems with cafés and coffee shops, however, the majority of decent ones are located in the city center. So where does the far-flung Fusion fit in all this?
Undoubtedly, the interiors are tasteful. The brick backdrop of the old paper mill provides a rustic feel, and during the day there’s no shortage of sunlight streaming in through the windows. Shelves of kitchen accessories adorn the walls, adding a slight Parisian touch that’s further accented by the slow French music playing in the background. The space is small, and with most of the tables seating two, the thought of a large group doesn’t seem to have crossed the minds of the owners.
Not that this was a problem. We were the only customers dining on a lazy Sunday afternoon, so the atmosphere was relaxed and the service quick. And while the décor itself is extravagant in style, the prices are not. The menu was limited to several options in terms of food – a few sandwich variations, desserts and soups – though if there was an English copy, we didn’t receive one. I was drawn to the Thai soup – an aromatic blend of coconut, lemongrass and shrimp. It did not disappoint, and the serving portion was also generous.
Onto dessert, whose options were far more appealing than the other dishes offered. I went with a mascarpone white chocolate tart topped with pomegranate and served with whipped cream to balance the richness. But I preferred their crème brulée – incredibly smooth and perfectly crisped on the top – a classic that had little to do with fusion, though. The café offers a business menu as well, plus different variations of breakfast – and certainly, it seems most pleasant earlier in the day for a breakfast or light lunch. While it is called Fusion, I didn’t see very much emphasis on that. Rather, different continental options. And though the best cafés will always be found in central Warsaw, Fusion is good. Very good. (VL)
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