It’s easy to mistake Oleandrów street as a grey stretch of nothing, but that’s actually far from the truth. Alive with energy, enterprise and bold self-expression, this unassuming side street has born brave, edgy start-ups like a Frisbee pub, craft beer kingdom Małe Piwo and Safripsti, a cool vintage boutique run by a former London-based make-up artist. In short, Oleandrów is very much the street of now.

Its most recent addition is Kurczaki, a small spot of upcycled fittings: crates turned into seats and tin cans into lights: they might look good, but good grief, it sure gets hot sitting underneath them. The tendency is to sympathize with the rotisserie chickens that this place specializes in.

Depending on the day, these skewered birds come seasoned using varying rubs and spices: Thai, Jamaican, Mediterranean, etc. Today, well today was the turn of Indian. As for the chicken, customers get three sizes to choose from (small, which isn’t so small, medium, which isn’t so medium, and large, which is exactly just that). It’s simple, fast, cheap. And it’s not a burger. The meat is tender, juicy, and all the better for my side of curry sauce – there’s four or so made-on-the-day sauces to choose. But it’s the skin that really seals the deal: thin, crisp and browned, it’s pure brilliance.

There are other pluses, as well. Thanks to a reciprocal agreement customers are free to bring in cones of chips from Okienko across the street (and they’re good), while drinks come by way of hip brands such as Yerbata and Fritz Cola. The complimentary mizeria salad (cucumbers / sour cream) was also delicious. Two things: the wooden cutlery just doesn’t cut it – literally. And there’s the heat. It’s so hot you can hear your hair crackle. These points aside, this is the happiest budget opening I’ve seen for some time. Good work Mr. Chicken!

(words and photos: AW)

Kurczaki ul. Oleandrów 8, facebook