Łan Sztuk Kalimera

I have a very special fondness for this place. This is where I fell in love last summer. This is where it all began. The magical charm of Stare Kawkowo is what took us from casual dating to the real thing. There really isn’t anything as glorious as the Polish countryside. Of course, the Cotswolds and Provence are impossible to match, but for a weekend jaunt, the untamed, endless green of Mazury and Warmia are an absolute dream.

A friend recommended Łan Sztuk as a nice, romantic spot as a chance to relax and also as a Bridget Jones-style litmus test for my burgeoning relationship. I really had no clue what to expect as we shuttled down the winding roads in our rented car, the three or so hours from Warsaw speeding by with ease. We arrived to find a charming cottage, surrounded by fields and trees, a few minutes away from the woods and secluded lakes. It was just right. We met the patrons, who were delightful and spoke surprisingly good English, and led to our room.

It was a quaint little room with an old-fashioned bed and vintage details. Authentic enough to be charming, but not dusty or otherwise icky. We took an evening stroll in the fields, did a bit of kissing in the moonlight and off to bed to make the most of the next few days. We spent those days exploring the environs: from the local lavender fields to wonderful little lakes. We got around mostly by bike and by car, for further trips out to the Narie lake, where we rented a rowboat and frolicked about in the middle of the lake. For fans of Gałkowo, Stare Kawkowo may come across as slightly less glamorous, but we were happy to flee the vanity fair in favor of some private time. 

Our stay was very affordable, costing somewhere around zł. 150 per day, plus no more than zł. 20 per person for 3 satisfying, home-cooked meals per day. There are only a handful of bedrooms, so there’s never a real crowd about. This place is great for the very crux of summer or the cooler months just before and after – even winter. Highly recommended for a way to recharge the batteries (and the romance) just 220 kilometers from Warsaw. (AMG)