Lofty Ambition

There have been times this summer when the air has felt so stiff and still you could strike a match off it. The climate has been punishing, but respite has been provided at Loft. Bypassing a busy ground level filled with pops of color, head upstairs to find an open air terrace licked by cooling breeze.

It’s by far the best spot to enjoy a seasonally adjusted menu that celebrates the strawberry. A fine idea, it presents three separate courses that utilize the fruit in a variety of ways: first up, an ample salad thick with greens, slithers of pork, cherry tomatoes, sheep’s cheese and Ferrari red strawberries. Light and fresh, it’s a strong opening salvo that feels right for the weather.

Next, chicken breast wrapped in bacon with nuggets of gnocchi and a finely chopped strawberry tartar subtly flavored with tarragon and elder. It sounds wacky but it works, with the flavor combinations making it an exciting main event.

Finally, the coup de grace is delivered by way of a fluffy semifreddo with slick of strawberry mousse: a smart choice on a stifling day and even more so when complimented by one of the elaborate, fancy cocktails Loft specialize in. Yet there is more to Loft than strawberries, and that much is proved via a menu that incorporates global influences and modern presentation. Take, for instance, the lamb chops: pink and dainty and everything good.

Keen to maintain their focus on seasonality, past themes have included asparagus, while the next menu – already being prepared for next week – will shine the spotlight on chanterelle mushrooms. How the chef chooses to treat this subject matter remains the cause of much intrigue – what we do know, is diners would be right to expect the unexpected…

Highly versatile and right for so many occasions, there aren’t many boxes that Loft leave unticked. No surprise, therefore, to find this city center hangout frequently filled to the seams with a diverse crowd.

Loft
ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, www.loftrestauracja.pl