Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, not to mention in a few prominent Western European kitchens, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”.
There’s creativity aplenty, with blobs of emulsion and swirls of sauce all figuring highly (tartar with gherkin foam, anyone), but those little details never outshine the bottom line: this is a celebration of provenance and nature as much as anything else, with dishes utilizing eco farm produce and free range ingredients. Not averse to sous-vide techniques or using a charcoal grill, this is food that’s both inventive yet easy to understand.
And Kosiń’s skills are complimented by a range of craft beers and cocktails and a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Most of all though, consider Lokal as something of a bridge between dining experiences: it’s got the innovative style of the new top-class restaurants, yet also the energy and buzz of more casual ventures. It matches all moods and expectations, making it something of a rarity on the Warsaw circuit. In short, they’ve hit the ground running.
(Photos from Lokal 14)
Lokal 14 ul. Świętokrzyska 14, facebook