It was, says owner Kamil Prandota-Prandecki, inspired by the artisan sandwich stops of New York and London. But make no mistake, Meat Love is not a simple cut-and-paste job. And that’s something you sense on entering, through a clattering door and down a steep set of steps. In the past, you could have described Meat Love as almost Middle Earth in spirit: all woodcutter crates and tight little spaces. Now though, they’ve knocked a wall through next door, opening up the venue considerably. Why did they do this? They had to. It was simply too popular continue as a snug little cave – and that’s fine with me. No longer do I have to lurk in the doorway waiting for tables to vacate.

In the past premium meat meant premium prices. Meat Love, however, have introduced top quality animals, used a long-cooking process on the buggers, and then stuck the results between fragrant, fresh baguettes. The quality is astonishing and the prices ever moderate. Forget the cardboard ingredients of Subway, instead enjoy sticky pulled pork that falls out of the bun, and a range of seasonal options such as waffles and candied bacon. Myself, I’ve gone through the sandwich menu and there’s nothing I like more than their roast beef baguette. Blush-colored pink, and with a coat of mayo and green pepper, it’s a sandwich I could eat for the rest of my days. Of course, it’s even better appreciated with generous glugs of their Ale Browar beer.

Conceived out of organic, free-range materials, the food you find at Meat Love is as nature intended. As they say themselves, “the first art in the world was the art of meat.” And here, meat really is art. An art appreciated by an audience that has grown far beyond the initial hipster target. Are they the best sandwiches in Warsaw? Nah, they’re the best in Poland.

(Words: Alex Webber; Photo: Meat Love facebook / Sunil Nair)

Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, facebook