For years, our paths with Jacek Grochowina have crossed in the most Warsaw way possible: reaching for vegetables at Pan Ziołko’s stall at the Forteca market. Quick hellos, a few shared words, and always the promise to catch up properly “next time.” At last, we made it happen — not at the market, but at Nolita, his flagship restaurant that has quietly but confidently defined fine dining in Warsaw for over a decade.

The highlight of sitting down wasn’t just the conversation, but the dishes themselves — veterans of the Nolita menu, polished with the kind of consistency that only time and talent can achieve. There was the wagyu tartare with truffle, served on a tempura rice cracker [seven years stong on the menu], the bluefin tuna wrapped in micro-thin kohlrabi slices, resembling delicate dumplings [eleven years a favorite on the menu], and the staple, octopus coated in tempura and paired with potato purée [nine years a favorite ]— once a main, now an appetizer, rescued from being dropped entirely thanks to unwavering demand from regular guests.
As we spoke, it became clear why Nolita has endured while trends have come and gone: Grochowina’s mix of discipline, respect for product, and an unwavering belief in the essentials of taste.

INSIDER: Nolita has been a flagship fine dining restaurant in Warsaw for so many years. How long has it been now and how do you keep the fine dining experience fresh for guests who return year after year?

Jacek Grochowina: It’s been 13 years, which in this market is a real achievement. From the very beginning, we’ve been strict about sticking to our core ideas. Of course, we upgrade things along the way, but the fundamentals — the way we cook, the way we serve, the philosophy of the restaurant — remain consistent.

Keeping it fresh is daily work. We constantly improve: the food, the service, the quality of the ingredients, even the porcelain. Every day, month, and year, we try to be better than before. That’s been the goal for 13 years — to keep raising the standard.

When you’re crafting a dish, is it about showcasing technique, highlighting the product, or simply making something delicious?

For me, deliciousness comes first. Taste is always the priority. But to achieve that, you need to start with the best products — and not break them, not spoil them, but keep them as pure as possible.
Over the years, it’s become easier to work with great ingredients. There are more specialized suppliers now who understand what chefs like us need, and the logistics have improved compared to ten or twelve years ago. Of course, some suppliers come and go, but when you have top-quality products and solid technique, there’s no excuse. Great product, great taste, and great technique — that’s the formula.

Many chefs talk about having a signature. If Nolita could be summed up in one flavor, texture, or emotion, what would it be?

For me, it’s the flavors of Asia. I love the freshness and diversity of Asian products, and I don’t limit myself to just one country. I use a lot from Japan, Thailand, and a little from China.

We have two signature dishes that really embody this: the bluefin tuna tartare with yuzu, and the octopus with wasabi. Many of our regular guests have ordered them over a hundred times, which is unusual for signature dishes. It’s easy to eat steak, grilled fish, or a salad countless times in your life. But to keep coming back week after week for a dish with such a distinct flavor — that’s special.
The challenge is consistency. Whether it’s Tuesday or Saturday, January or December, the dish has to taste exactly the same. When guests leave, I want them already thinking about their next visit. That’s the mark of a great restaurant — when you read the menu and you want to eat more than just what you’ve chosen.

What was the last flavor combination that truly surprised you?
To be honest, it’s difficult to surprise me — I’ve eaten thousands of meals all over the world, at least a hundred a year in different locations. But one recent experience really stood out: in Vietnam, I had some of the best bread I’ve ever eaten in my life. The quality was just incredible — something I hadn’t expected there at all. Those are the moments that stay with me.

If you weren’t cooking at Nolita tonight, where in Warsaw would we likely find you eating instead?

That’s always a tricky question, because I don’t want to upset anyone by not mentioning their place. But honestly, I enjoy going to Maką i Woda in Zoliborz, everything from their grill is great. If I feel like a steak, I usually go to Mięsny in Saska Kępa. When I want something casual, I go to Smash Burger up the street. For sushi, I go to Japonki on ul. Lwowska, and recently, I’ve also been exploring some Thai places — I like the Thai basil with minced pork or chicken with cashew nuts from Pumpui, which is quite good.

Nolita