The accusation that the kitchen lacks focus is common and well-founded (Lithuanian herring and kimchi burgers compete against Mediterranean mezze, steaks, and oriental salads), but this ‘bit of everything’ approach is rendered palatable by the overall consistency.

The filet mignon, at PLN 69, remains one of the better steak deals in Warsaw.

Then you have an interior, designed by the set designer of The Pianist, that’s all wrought iron, brickwork and monochrome tiles.

It looks great and appeals to all, so it’s little wonder that it’s busy at all hours: as far as lessons in how to run a restaurant go, you get the idea that Der Elefant could right the manual.

Der Elefant
Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com