Interesting times at Enfant Terrible where, if rumor is right, the decision has been made to step a little back from fine dining and instead embrace a more casual approach. Whether that’s true or not, there’s enough to suggest that a complete U-turn is unlikely: for instance, the presence of Tomatoes, Tomatoes, a beautiful assiette that sees the humble tomato presented in six or so forms – it’s classic Enfant that says much for the creativity of chef Michał Bryś.
Mains, mind, they’re definitely a bit more back to basics: in our case, a glazed pig’s knuckle with potato gratin and a pickled cucumber.
It’s a big old dish this, arguably too big for it’s own good, and quite possibly better suited for the dark depths of winter. Nonetheless, the taste is bang on even if the presentation feels uncomfortably basic.
Desserts are the real surprise. You expect high quality from a kitchen of this standing, but what arrives isn’t just good, it’s utterly irresistible: the kind of thing you cross town to seek out. What is it? Something that the menu describes as Cherries & Caramel: brittle butter cake, salted caramel, cherries in chocolate, cherry cream and cherry ice cream. One word – brilliant.
So, overall, a successful trip, with Enfant meeting and, in many cases, exceeding expectations. Improvements? Perhaps a bit more interaction from the staff. If you’re paying PLN 75 for a main, it’d be great to know a little more about it: you know, how the thing’s been cooked or what the funny gel on the cucumber is.
Regardless of the above, Enfant have maintained the original standard set when they opened in 2014 whilst seemingly evolving enough to remain relevant and intriguing. No two ways about it, what started life as a gastronomic curiosity has crossed into the realm of becoming a Mokotów landmark.