There are those who would argue that Fest’s best months are in summer, when crimson skies set over the wooden terrace decking. True, they may have a point, but thinking of Fest as a one season wonder would be to overlook its wider qualities.
Of these, the cooking is at the forefront: simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, it’s an atavistic celebration of fire, meat and brawn – there’s a pulled pork burger, served with a side of kimchi, not to mention smokey sausages paired with the chef’s special sauces: on this occasion, a dab of basil dip and a thick apple ketchup.
Set on the top floor of a long wooden cabin, it’s a place that feels pleasingly isolated from the downtown hubbub. If there is noise, then that’s the roar and crackle of the fireplace up top.
Run as a side concern by the same mob behind Bibenda, few places manage to feel so casual and right – never more so than when the chef leaves his lair to fire up the smoker and cook Fest’s legendary ribs. Miss them at your peril.
Fest Port Czerniakowski
ul. Zaruskiego 8
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