Notes: Koneser Grill

De-formalizing the dining experience whilst placing wine at the core of their offer, few restaurant groups can claim to be as influential as Ferment, a group widely credited with

shepherding the city away from stiff fine dining haunts and into surroundings more casual.

Popularizing the modern bistro format whilst showcasing the best Polish produce, each venue in their portfolio has played its own little part in the city’s gastro revolution, with Butchery & Wine, Rozbrat 20, Brasserie Warszawska and Kieliszkiej ventures transforming the F&B scene in Warsaw.

Now, within the historic walls of the former Koneser vodka factory, comes their latest project, the aptly named Koneser Grill.

Looking smart and chic, it’s a restaurant that places ‘fire’ at the heart of their concept with a menu that’s little less than a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. Starting with beautifully composed drinks (in our case, Polish whisky sour) and an array of home-baked breads, ours was an experience involving a delicate mushroom broth followed by a glorious heap of roast beef lashed in pepper sauce and assorted veg – balanced and thoughtful yet also brimming with the warming taste of home, it’s easy to think of it as a modernized version of a British roast dinner (a fine thing indeed).

And then, topping it all off, an unexpectedly spectacular dessert: pineapple tarte tatin with a scoop of cardamom ice cream: not just good, but utterly brilliant. In fact, a fine reflection of the place itself.

Koneser Grill

ul. Ząbkowska 29, konesergrill.pl