Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious magic since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw: from tiled stoves and jars filled with mysterious fermentations, everything about this place radiates warm, rural charm.

We love our visits here, and that’s partly because no other chef does a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy: despite its near permanent presence on the menu, each visit we make sees the fish interpreted in new, fantastical ways. Served with beetroot, cranberry, pear, horseradish and cream, this visit proved no different.

For mains, two highlights which are hard to divide when it comes to quality: a catfish with porcini mushrooms, pickles and crispy potato chips giving as much joy as our other choice – rabbit with horseradish puree, carrot and red onion. And as for dessert, that sees another mainstay of Polan’s repertoire make an appearance: a donut soaking in custard cream and a rich plum sauce.

Straddling a middle ground between modern and traditional Polish, this is a kitchen that rivals anything in town.

Polana Smaków

ul. E. Plater 14,

polanasmakow.pl