Well let’s ask this – just who on earth doesn’t enjoy eating in a palace. Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv.
Though modernized in presentation, these are good old-fashioned tastes cooked with aplomb: gorgeous breads served in a decorative box, a starter of herring and potato salad with beetroot and mayo, and a main featuring steak served foie gras, truffle potato puree, spinach and velvet-like sauces of peppercorn and cherry. Dessert, meanwhile, is something simple, homemade sorbets and a nip of homemade liquor – served in a vessel cascading with smoke, it’s a finish to remember.
Eschewing complex trends and daft serving methods, it’s a restaurant you immediately understand – a place that places emphasis on old values such as hospitality and taste. In a city crowded with eateries run by millennials or maverick chefs who’ve overdosed on celebrity kitchen TV, this is a place that returns to the classics and with marvelous results.
