What do you need to know about Salto? The work of Martin Gimenez Castro, this Argentinean chef hit headlines in 2013 when he emerged as victor from the first series of the TV show Top Chef. His restaurant, accessed to the side of the Rialto Hotel, opened a month or so after, and has been recognized as one of Poland’s top dining rooms ever since.
Design-wise, it replicates the Rialto’s love of Art Deco, though also features several subtle nods to South American culture.
The menu, meanwhile, sees fine dining given a Latin twist.
For starters, our latest visit begins with something more local: marinated herring with crème fraiche, smoked ‘oscypek’ cheese and pickled broad beans. A solid introductory shot, though arguably in need of a little extra jazz.
A palette cleanser next, a quenelle of raspberry & peppermint sorbet – glorious!
For mains, our choice is simple: a strip loin, medium-rare, with creamy mashed potatoes and garden fresh greens. Straight-forward but superbly executed.
Onto dessert, and this is a mind-blowing moment – blackberry sorbet, white chocolate mousse and meringue.
Complex in some parts, understandable in others, this is a menu that befitting of one of Poland’s biggest gastronomic names – in a nutshell, immensely enjoyable.
Salto
ul. Wilcza 73, saltorestauracja.pl
(Words & Photos: AW)
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