The latest restaurant to come under the Insider’s scrutiny? White One, a swank-looking effort in a semi-secret yard just off Koszykowa.

Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big pieces of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere serious.

The food, so far, has won rave reviews from many, with chef Paweł Chomentowski hotly tipped for big things in the future.

Starters: for us, Dutch-style herring with apple, fermented beetroot, horseradish granite and fennel. A good solid start: nothing more, nothing less.

Mains: beef cheek with chocolate and coffee sauce, glazed vegetables and truffle. Fine stuff this, very fine indeed – the kind of dish you want to take home on a cold, winter’s night. Faultless.

Dessert: Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with Mirabelle plum and white chocolate. After such a big-winning main, this again feels a little middle of the road: safe, subtle tastes that won’t trouble the memory much. You finish and forget.

Overall: some points of excellence, others more unspectacular. But there’s a good sense of style here, plus the suspicion that the best is still to come. A promising venue that should be filed under ‘one to watch’.

White One
ul. Koszykowa 47