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Silesia – Part II
Of the seven underground complexes known to have been built as part of the Nazi Riese project, seven have so far been discovered with three open to the public. Bleary eyed, we set off to visit the most high profile: Osówka. Traveling by taxi, the 40 minute ride takes... Read more
Don’t Be Scared of the Dark – Silesia Part 1
Saturday morning, beginning of April. For the last two weeks Poland has been bathed in the exquisite colors of an early spring. Today though, it’s a slate grey sky accompanied by drizzle. But it’s appropriate: is there a better way to view Książ Castle than as it emerges from... Read more
Neighborhood Prowl: Saska Kępa
With Saska’s annual day winding up for another year, the Insider takes a look at the architectural details that make the area so unqiue. Saska’s interwar architecture borders the magnificent. Katowicka 7A (above) was designed by Bohdan Lachert for his father. Lachert himself lived next door in what is... Read more
Bodies Revealed

Bodies Revealed

Features 23 May 2014 0

There can’t be many exhibitions in the world that prompt people to reassess their lifestyle, but then there can’t be many exhibitions like this. If not my whole life, I certainly regretted the night before – the tenth beer and that twentieth cigarette. Maybe it was the liver, engorged... Read more


Blog 20 May 2014 0

Bielańska Street: I’d given up ever seeing this piece of Warsaw resurrected. For years – six decades or so – this plot stood as a derelict war wreck. But after a snowfall of magic money beans it’s been transformed – the award-winning Senator office building has risen and now,... Read more
Dwie Trzecie

Dwie Trzecie

Blog 17 May 2014 0

A few weeks ago I sang eulogies about Jedna Trzecie, a beautiful Belgian beer bar that didn’t so much add swagger to my step as it did a stagger. Great place, even better beer. Anyhow, they’ve now gone the extra yard and added a restaurant to their portfolio by... Read more
Velvet Underground
There’s a school of thought that suggests Old Town’s handsome charm is skin deep. Well, what about going under the skin and right down below… We all know that Old Town was rebuilt after the war, but that’s not to say all of it is new. The methodical zeal... Read more
Blast to the Past
Extraordinary in its eccentricity, the Museum of Technology is something of a misnomer. Surely it should be the Museum of Anomalies? After all, where else would you find such diverse attractions as communist Poland’s first sports car, the Syrena Sport (“It was banned by the government,” laments our guide,... Read more
Sueño Café & Tapas Bar
Located on the outskirts of Warsaw University, Sueño has seduced much of the younger generation – and for good reason. The simple décor, inspired by a traveler’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere. Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings.... Read more


Shopping 12 May 2014 0

When you live in a place long enough, you acquire a lot of second hand knowledge about the best this and the best that: dentist, shoe repair, tailor, etc. To that list I’m now also adding MacLife, which if it isn’t a lifesaver is certainly a hard drive saver.... Read more