Who Is He!
The last ten years have seen Aleksander Baron evolve from maverick talent to something of a national treasure: credited with re-popularizing the country’s love affair with fermented products, his use of historic techniques and recipes from bygone times (and we’re talking several centuries here) is as celebrated as his often unconventional approach and risky cuisine.
Currently the Insider’s reigning Chef of the Year, his return to the battle lines of Warsaw’s food and drink scene is a welcome boost for a sector left feeling flattened by that strangest of summers.
The Place
Lit with strings of lightbulbs overhead, and emblazoned with a hashtag that announces “Ferment Bitch”, find an attractive network of open-air wooden cabins constructed on pristine timber decking set just off the so-called Royal Route.
But as the quality of the carpentry suggests, this is not some seasonal venture rather something altogether more permanent: set to function through the year, all-weather canopies are to be added to protect the public from the elements whilst retaining the outdoorsy feel that comes with being here.
What You’re Eating
“Fire and smoke are the main components of the kitchen,” says Baron, and as such people visit for a masculine menu involving suckling pigs (order in advance); sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. “This food is all about pleasure,” he says, and we couldn’t agree more.
On The Drink Front
To feel the full spirit of this project, it’s important to visit at night and leave the car back at home. Carefully curated, the drinks card is designed to rhyme with the food: small batch ciders produced by Kwaśne Jabłko; bottled beers from Trzech Kumpli; trending Polski wines; foamy Czech lagers from specially built tanks; and killer cocktails such as the smoky, whisky Bloody Mary.
Baron The Family
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4, website
