09.12.2021

Review: Browar Warszawski

Coordinates

Unless you’ve spent the last few months trapped inside a cave, there’s little doubt that you’ve heard about Browary Warszawskie – revamped as a swanky mixed-use development, the historic Haberbusch and Schiele brewery has received the mother of all facelifts to become an energetic micro-district swarming with eateries, high-end condos, artsy installations and future-forward offices. But at its heart – both spiritually and physically – sits Browar Warszawski, a multi-floored emporium that has revived this area’s brewing traditions.

Visuals

Simply put, these are stunning. To see it from the best angle, walk down the mural-clad steps to Browary’s half-submerged plaza before finding Browar sitting to the left. Through grand vaulted arches, one is met by a striking glass façade which conceals the brewery itself.

First things first, this place is vast, but never does it feel so thanks to a design that has done much to carve it into several different areas. Naturally, pride of place belongs to an illuminated bar, but take your time to explore the different corners and levels to find a venue that presents itself with a thousand different faces – comfortable armchairs, flourishes of vintage, industrial leftovers, shining beer tanks… there’s even a bed positioned in front of a retro TV.

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beautiful.

Vibes

If the place is beautiful, then so too are the guests inside – attracting a global generation of aspirational people, it feels reassuringly cosmopolitan in its outlook and feel. There’s a diversity at play here, and that’s aided and abetted by weekend DJs that lift the atmosphere that extra notch.

But Browar’s real talent lies in its adaptability. Yes, you can feel the high energy on a Friday, but it’s also equally at home acting as a mid-week lunch point to chat work, or for that sacred 5 p.m. pint following a Wednesday in the office. Whatever your needs, the mood fits all.

Make It A Pint

Beer is central to Browar Warszawski, and running that side of operations is the skilled Dawid Bąk. There’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction.

Heavily slanted towards classic styles, the temptation to go for shock value is avoided, with Bąk instead preferring to seek quality and consistency – in this, the house IPA is the perfect example of a sensible pint that’s been interpreted with respect.

Paying heed to Poland’s beery history, find also traditional offerings like the super-smoky Grodziskie or the thick, heavy Porter. Of course, trends have not been ignored, and for us the Milkshake IPA has become the first and last order.

And There’s More…

As crazy as it may seem, not everyone likes beer. Browar Warszawski respects this by presenting a thoughtful choice of cocktails that include the Browar Sour – a tart and delicious drink based on Ostoya vodka. Whiskies, too, are numerous in number, with the choice extending into triple figures, whilst the wine side of things is succinct but quality-focused. No matter what you like, it’s simply not conceivable that you’ll be leaving with a thirst.

Table Talk

Reasons to visit are multiple, and the food is right up there. First things first, and you expect a brewery to specialize in hefty dishes that pair with the whole beer-swigging thang, and yes, Browar do just that. If there’s a difference, then it’s with the nuance and sophistication that such dishes are prepared – bossed by Dmitrij Babak, this is a kitchen that understands concepts of subtlety and grace.

Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, though lighter wallets need look no further than the chef’s fish & chips. No word of a lie, these are the best we’ve ever found outside of England.

But much like the rest of Browar Warszawski, the menu is a flexible affair, and this is demonstrated by the presence of beautifully composed snacky platters; award-winning Antonius caviar; and grilled tiger prawns. Again, if you don’t find something you like, then you need to give your glasses a rub.