Where Am I?
The heart of Praga, which, in today’s terms, means the historic Koneser vodka factory. One of the most striking urban renewal projects in recent memory has seen a 19th century industrial complex handed new life with a swank program of redevelopment that’s seen it revived as a mixed-use project featuring flashy flats, funky offices and no shortage of food and drink outlets.
Of these, the newly opened Koneser Grill feels like the final part of the jigsaw. In line with its surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors.
What Am I Eating?
As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the concept with the menu little more than a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. Starting with beautifully composed drinks (in our case, Polish whisky sour) and an array of home-baked breads, ours was an experience involving a delicate mushroom broth followed by a glorious heap of roast beef lashed in pepper sauce and assorted veg – balanced and thoughtful yet also brimming with the warming taste of home, it’s easy to think of it as a modernized version of a British roast dinner (a fine thing indeed).
Picking winners, however, is easy when dealing with a menu featuring saddle of lamb aged for 28-days, ribeye dry-aged for 65-days and US Black Angus. Away from the meaty business, finer things are celebrated by way of sophisticated dishes such as quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts.
As for happy endings, this visit – the first of surely many – found itself peaking out with a pineapple tarte tatin with a scoop of cardamom ice cream: not just good, but stonkingly brilliant.
Who Do I Thank?
You’ve probably heard of Daniel Pawełek, and if you haven’t, then give your head a wobble. As the founder of the Ferment F&B group, few people have revolutionized Warsaw’s eating habits in quite the same way.
Responsible for de-formalizing the restaurant experience whilst maintaining top-level standards, his other restaurants (Rozbrat 20, Brasserie Warszawska, Butchery & Wine and Kieliszki Na Hożej and Na Próźnej), are shoe-in entries on any Best Of Warsaw list. Expect Koneser Grill to join them through its intuitive matching of A-list wines, staggering food and overall commitment to service and style. Good work geezer!
Koneser Grill
ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl
