Review: Wabu

Wabu: remember them? Originally opened on Krucza, the place rose to prominence for premium sushi the like of which Warsaw had not tasted before. Inexplicably, just as word was spreading about their brilliance, they closed. The city despaired. As it turns out, this was a temporary measure and now, following a six-month hiatus, Wabu have relaunched at a new address on Pl. Europejski.

Visually, the two couldn’t be more different. If the prototype had a failing, then it was its shock-white color scheme: fine at night with lights dimmed, but during the day a harsh reminder of your last dental experience. In contrast, the new look Wabu is a stunning example of design gone right: charcoal shades, sake drums etched with the haikus of 17th century poet Matsuo Bashu and swooning views of the square outside. It’s beautiful.

Continuity has been supplied via the retention of the sushi master, Paweł, and his exploratory menu is a hymn to artful craftsmanship: discs of Wagyu beef served up as gourmet mini-burgers; a life affirming beef broth swirling with flavor; tuna ceviche that snaps with freshness. Onwards, and our journey through modern Japan progresses via crab salad wrapped with tamago, tuna toro with foie gras and salmon crowned with seaweed. Immaculate, unexpected and utterly masterful, this is a contemporary re-imaging of a classic cuisine.

Wabu
Pl. Europejski 2, wabu.pl