Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The sushi is strictly standard – decent but no fireworks – so the real star here is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did.

Robata by Akashia

Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.akashia.pl