Second Look: MOD Second Look: MOD

Few streets encapsulate the changing face of Warsaw better than Oleandrów – once seen as a grey road to nowhere, a fizz of action has seen this skinny side street transformed by a growing collection of offbeat stores and unorthodox hangouts… Nowhere, however, does a better job of capturing the spirit of this street than MOD.

The lowdown: an unorthodox marriage between a boutique donut stop and a casual restaurant. By day it’s all about the donuts, with Kamila and Patrycja’s divine creations inspired by their time in NYC. The mango is our favorite by a mile. Come evening chef Trisno Hamid enters the room, using his Asian background and French gastronomy training to influence a menu that’s like no other.

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Highlights: in a word, many. The ramen are highly rated, but we stick to the pirozki – silky dough purses filled with beef bourguignon and accompanied with a curl of wasabi gel and a luxurious red wine jus. Woah. Other hat tips go towards the foie gras terrine, not to mention the braised lamb with caramelized shallots.

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Don’t forget: dessert! Aside from the donuts (which might all be gone by the time you get there in the evening), the petit fours are fine dining standard, while the white chocolate mousse a cooling sensation served in a big hefty portion.

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Prices: moderate. Starters average at around 20 and mains around 40. Portions could be bigger, but a three-course meal should see you amply satisfied. Frankly, such is the standard you’d happily pay two or three times were you served these courses in Warsaw’s more upscale restaurants.

The design:
a mirrored retro wall, upside down plants, concrete floors and lots of tables squeezed in. It feels ad hoc and spontaneous and is the epitome of casual dining.

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Good to know: no reservations and incredibly popular. Impatient eaters might want to reconsider their visit. Those who don’t mind waiting are in for a treat.

Verdict: simply amazing. Thrillingly creative in both look, taste and overall feel, it’s no wonder that MOD ran away with the title of Best Newcomer at our Best of Warsaw annual awards.

(Words & Photos: AW)

MOD
ul. Oleandrów 8, facebook

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