If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef.

Soul Kitchen Bistro
ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl