Hummus bars might well have had their day in the sun this summer, but for me the brightest trend of the year has been Warsaw’s growing affection for Mexican street food – true, many of the new arrivals are, at best, imposters, but others have been standout: that means you Gringo Bar, that means you.

So with Warsaw getting into the Mexican spirit it was a bit of a surprise when Spoco Loco closed their doors earlier in the year. Oh no! But while the closure of their Wilanów location appears terminal, their Saska walk-in has risen from the grave. Reactivated at the weekend, it’s pretty much as we remember: small. True, other details have been adjusted, amongst them the introduction of a narrow bench and a more urban design (read: clubby music and some industrial touches).

The food though is the talking point – or rather, the sauces that accompany them. Graded from one to seven, the No. 7 is no laughing matter and demands respect. It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Let this be your induction to Warsaw’s most X-rated sauce.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business – even if there have been teething troubles (running out of food, miscommunicated deliveries, etc.). All in all, their return feels like an early Xmas present. Welcome back lads!

Spoco Loco

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