There’s not much I miss about Britain, but a good Sunday Roast is certainly up there. To date a few bars and restaurants have tried to implement this tradition out in Poland yet all have failed. No surprise really – not only is it time consuming, it’ll always face being bench-marked against the impossible: the one your mam made when you were young.

Now though we see a flicker of hope. Step forward Paul Cowen, MD of Pure Sky Club. Trained as a chef in a past life, find Paul swapping his suit for chef’s whites each Sunday as he resurrects the past in his sky top kingdom. Open to non-members on Sunday, the weekends have seen a growing number of people convening to celebrate the sacred tradition that is the British Sunday Roast.

The deal is thus: 100 zł gets you the works – a starter (in my case, a restorative cream of vegetable soup that immediately dissolves the excess of Saturday), unlimited house wine, a choice of dessert (me: crème brulee) and, of course, the main event: the roast itself. The cut of beef if ample and generous, and supported by a good splash of gravy, roast potatoes, creamy potato puree, cauliflower cheese and, the crowning point, perfect Yorkshire Pudding. For the first time in years I do my best Oliver Twist and ask, “please, can I have some more…” Warsaw Sunday’s will never be the same…  

Pure Sky Club ul. Złota 59, pureskyclub.com