Table For Two

Back to Nolita for me this week, my first time since they came away as the big winner of our Best Of Warsaw awards at the start of the year. The result was everything I expected: perfect.

The Place: Just stepping inside Nolita gives me a buzz – there’s a well-tuned sense of style here, one that’s chic and swank but never chichi. From the dimmed down lights to the immaculate napery, there’s an international class that disconnects diners from Warsaw outside.

The Chef: Jacek Grochowina, a man whose menu is a masterpiece of imagination and intelligence – nothing crazy, but plenty of little twists and turns to keep the diner guessing. The glass-fronted kitchen allows plenty of opportunity to watch the acclaimed chef prowling his realm while adjusting this and tinkering with that – it’s a thrill to observe such focus.

The Food: Beautiful. For the first time I opt for the tasting menu, a six course demonstration of the chef’s full skillset. Highlights are numerous, though the standouts are the yellowfin tuna tartare, the roast veal sweetbreads and, in particular, an aged beef fillet that leaves me in a swoon.

The Price: I always leave feeling a little winded, so it helps to remind yourself that compared to Western Europe it’s still a great deal – 215zł for six courses balances out well. God knows what price this level of cooking goes for in London, but I can imagine its a few notes more.

Overall: Not for the first time I leave asking, so where the bloody hell is their Michelin star. No panic, it’ll come.

Nolita
ul. Wilcza 29A, nolita.pl

(Words & Photos: AW)

Above: beetroot assiette

Above: that yellowfin tuna tartare with kohlrabi and yuzu

Above: roast veal sweetbreads with kale, parsnip and morel jus

Above: aged beef fillet – the winner of the night

Above: and let’s not forget dessert – unfortunately, I have forgotten what it was, other than excellent… definitely some rhubarb in there somewhere and a great milk ice cream to offset the flavors.