French

ArtBistro Stalowa
Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol...
Bubbles

Bubbles

Restaurants 26 June 2015 0

Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this...
Le Bistro Rozbrat 
The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu...
La Maison

La Maison

Restaurants 17 June 2015 0

Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in...
Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne
I’m not really sure where I stand on hotel restaurants. I’ve been to some great ones in Britain, but they’re usually frilly boutique manor houses nestled by a lake. Warsaw’s hotels, on the other hand, remind me of those bloated, bulimic weekend brunches: of getting lashed on house fizz...
Baltazar by Mondovino
I don’t like VIP rooms in restaurants – shuttered and segregated from the rest of the world they don’t make me feel important, they make me feel like a prisoner. So when I’m told we’ve got a meeting arranged in the VIP room of Baltazar my reaction is pretty...
Tamka 43

Tamka 43

Restaurants 29 September 2014 0

You could call Tamka 43 a pioneer. Opened before Atelier Amaro conquered the country, Tamka’s launch came at a time when Warsaw was making a fine dining transition. Remember what came before? For the benefit of those that don’t, upmarket dining meant ploughing through a glazed duck set at...
Być Może

Być Może

Restaurants 30 January 2014 0

This place is good, very good. They describe themselves as a French bistro/bakery but Być Może is much more than that. In a time when cafés are popping up like crazy and everything seems to have been done before, this comes as a nice breath of fresh air because...

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