modern Polish
Lobo Bistro
Restaurants 14 October 2019 0
Accessed via a glass-ceilinged courtyard, Lobo presents itself in two parts: the first, a dark, fern-colored dining room, and the second, a more spacious area high on natural light and wood. It sits well alongside a culinary philosophy that values nature, with the modern Polish menu installing the humble...
Widely recognized from his work presenting the domestic version of Hell’s Kitchen, Michał Brys returns to the kitchen with a new venture, an informal-style restaurant with battleship colors offset by cabaret posters – a busy cultural program is in the works, and so too a menu that will seek...
The Insider can’t resist an off-the-cuff visit to Kieliszki, which is how we ended up there the other day to foxtrot through the latest spring additions to their ever-changing menu. Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake – a...
Le’pię
Restaurants 8 March 2019 0
Find the humble dumpling reimagined under the practiced hand of chef Sandra Kotowicz, Poland’s very own Princess of Pierogi. Handmade with love and invention, find this basic Polish staple given a remarkable, sexy makeover – the place caused such a splash in 2018, even the BBC reported on it....
Trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw, December’s move already seems to be working out well. Though dropping the ‘Mała’ part of their name, don’t expect to find all the much more room at the new address: compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original,...
Opasły Tom
Restaurants 10 December 2018 0
The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. As for food, that’s handled by...
Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami is up and running. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by the cooking of Damian Wajda. Having first dabbled with...
Few chefs have done more to rehabilitate Poland’s culinary reputation than Andrzej Polan – a crusader for seasonal tastes and regional produce, his is a menu that gives mundane sounding ingredients new impetus: you’ve had herring before, just not like this. Hell, even the humble dumpling is given an...
Opened mid-November, the flagship restaurant of the revamped Hotel Warszawa is already being hotly tipped as the ‘newcomer of the year’. Eating here, you understand why. The menu, a basic sheet of paper, finds itself divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’ (call us old fashioned, but we just...
A protégé of Tom Aikens, chef Bartosz Szymczak has come to be regarded as one of the most original chefs in Poland. Taking the reins at Rozbrat 20 in late 2016, under his leadership the venue has grown to become one of the local blogospheres favorite write-ups – and...
