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10.04.2015

FeaturesRestaurants

Kitchen

ATTENTION: PERMANENTLY CLOSED

It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce. Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: crisp, juicy and just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork. They are the smoking gun, the conclusive evidence that change is for the good. After a well-received six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – and the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation.

“It’s a new era for us,” says owner Tomek Woźniak, “I got bored of the fancy food: it wasn’t me, I just couldn’t feel the place anymore.” The reaction has been a strategic rethink, one that sees the presentation of a menu of comfort food. “This is fresh food for real people,” says Tomek, “so lots of little plates made using the best natural, local ingredients.” This includes meatballs, the like of which Warsaw hasn’t seen before. It’s simple food, yet breathtaking in perfection. Washing them down with glugs of house lemonade and one is left lolling in a pleasant state of heaven. Give me more.

The whole ‘back to basics’ approach is not limited to tweaks alone. Kitchen’s award-winning burgers (remember how good these blighters were?) are back and better than before, along with initiatives such as home delivery and maximum five to ten minute wait times for breakfast. Have no doubt, this is more than a rehash of previous ideas, it’s a complete new beginning…

Kitchen

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