The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. Bills rack up fast in Wabu, but the spoils are worth it. In time for the new year, they’ve also tweaked the interior and ditched the whole “let’s sit around a circular bar” charade.

Wabu 

ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl