Wilczy Głód | Warsaw Insider
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Say what you like about the passage of time, but it’s done some good things to Warsaw. Take Wilcza street, for instance. In the... Wilczy Głód
Wilczy Głód Wilczy Głód

Say what you like about the passage of time, but it’s done some good things to Warsaw. Take Wilcza street, for instance. In the old days – by that I mean, like, seven years ago – it was best known for its dog ‘deposits’ and brothels: I know some unfortunates who couldn’t walk five meters without stepping into either. Now though, the street has blossomed into a thriving little area whose pre-war tenements today house a number of quirky bars and little restaurants. The latest one appearing on the map is Wilczy Głód – and guess what, I like it!

The Place: a small black and white spot with bare light bulbs hanging from tree-like installations, and cartoonish wolves painted on the walls. It looks fun and casual, and comes with the addition of little toys scattered about: e.g., a fat little mouse behind a cushion!

The Crowd: very female dominated on my visit, and it definitely feels targeted towards young to middle-aged urbane professionals. I’m good with that.

The Staff: sweet as. Out server wasn’t the most confident in her English-language skills, but again, I’m fine with that and don’t really care – the main point is that communication is easy. Plus, in spite of a Polish-only blackboard menu, their online menu is dual-language, plus they have a paper printout that arrives in Polish and English.

The Food: the talking point here is cooking that pairs international ideas with organic local produce from little family farmsteads. You sense immediately this is a place created out of a love and respect for food.

For Starters: for me that was a beetroot and herring soup with a couple of grapes and raisins. Personally, I didn’t really have much time for the herring (unless it’s served by Wojciech Amaro, I don’t like it full stop – but then, Amaro could present me with a pile of sand I’d say great things). The soup though was astonishing: cool, crisp, vibrant. Loved it. The Mrs though claimed hers was better – she went for menasza, which the menu describes as a ‘soup of the Sephardic Jews’. Utilizing red lentils, curry and coriander, this was a thick broth that truly warms the cockles. I’d recommend it, but not to the same stonking level as my own choice.

For Mains: for her, turkey slices on a bed of rocket. A salad it might be, but you’d never really guess such is the emphasis on the turkey. Both of us found it a little dry, but this was rectified by asking for more pineapple and cardamom dressing. With this generously applied, you find yourself facing a very decent main. Myself, I opted for crispy chicken drumsticks stuffed with buckwheat and spinach. This was a dish that falls off the bone and pretty much melts in the mouth. Delicious, with my one complaint being the ‘mild mustard sauce’ was indeed just that – so mild you could barely notice it. While I don’t want to be overpowered, a bit more snap would have been welcome.

And to Finish: we shared a mascarpone mousse dusted with Belgian cocoa. This was far lighter than we both imagined, with none of the sickly richness that I suspected would appear. A good conclusion.

To Drink: I didn’t ask, but from what I could make they don’t have a license – but, judging by the can of Lech one bloke was necking (silly man, doesn’t he realize Poland now has good beer?), I’m assuming they operate a bring your own policy in exchange for a corkage fee. But I wasn’t tempted by that, not when they serve the full Fentiman’s range – if you don’t know, these are superb non-alcoholic ‘botanical beverages’ that make use of weird herbs and plant roots. The Curiosity Cola is fabulous, though at zł. 14 a bit steep in price.

The Price: without tip our bill came to zł. 120, with the general agreement being it was money well spent.

The Verdict: delighted with this discovery, and an interesting foil to the not-so-distant Kaskrut. There’s a lot of things they do right, and it’s no lie to say I’ll be back very soon.

(Words & Photos: Alex Webber)

Wilczy Głód ul. Wilcza 29A, facebook

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