Winner: Źródło
An unorthodox choice? Perhaps. Just within eyeshot of the onion domes of Praga’s Russian Church, Źródło finds itself housed on the ground floor of a gloomy Commie block. As surroundings go, it’s hardly auspicious. In some ways, however, that’s why we love it – it doesn’t conform, it doesn’t fit the mould.
In tune with the retro, blast-to-the-past address, the interior is a jumble of exposed pipes, flurries of greenery, hardwood floors, recycled furnishings and colourful Boho bits and bobs. It’s full of personality.
Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence. In October, that meant pumpkin with goat milk feta and ‘golden raisins’, and a star turn from a beef rib with pickled plums and a pair of steamed buns. Making it even better, drinks include interesting craft beers (try the ‘apple pie’ brewed by Nepomucen), regional ciders, and an array of bio wines.
A passionate and unusual representation of Poland, Źródło is a place of heart – in these challenging times, its integrity and character is a pleasure to behold.
Wiślana 8
Regarded as one of Warsaw’s gastronomic treasures, each month sees Robert Trzópek design a tasting menu inspired by a specific region of Poland. His creative interpretations of the nation’s culinary traditions are delicate, nuanced and beautifully balanced. The chic but casual setting reflects the philosophy.
Aleje Ujazdowskie 24
Once seen as a classic restaurant for ‘old people’, Pod Gigantami’s reinvention stretches to 3 a.m. finishes come the weekend. Marrying heritage with hip, during more normal hours enjoy thoughtfully cooked Polish classics including an old school schabowy the size of a small planet.
Chocimska 7
An oldie but a goldie! With the house pianist tinkling in the background, just being here feels special. For formal, almost ceremonial occasions, Różana evokes the noble spirit of Old Poland with its upmarket menu and sense of tradition.
Smolna 4
Surrounded by darting squirrels and tumbling foliage, the park location feels spiritually aligned with the Green Bear’s devotion to celebrating nature. Paying homage to seasonality and tradition, the flavours are big and the tastes are true inside this sanctuary of elegant fancy.
