ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl
There is a saying in British foodie circles that ‘foam is temporary, class is permanent’. If ever such a maxim could be applied to a chef, then let Jacek Grochowina be that man. Sure, there’s technology in his kitchen (and yes, there is a little foam play), but ultimately this is a chef who prefers to eschew fads and fashions in place of something else: the bottom line. In Grochowina’s case, that bottom line means a menu that makes sense. There is no guesswork applied to the ordering process here, for this is a card that all understand. The trick, however, is Grochowina’s dexterous ability to turn something that sounds pretty good into something truly epic: a meal you’ll be raving about for the following few days.
Relying on instinct and precision, Grochowina’s creations produce pure moments of pleasure. But one factor underpins Nolita’s success, and that’s the chef’s own hunger –opting to shirk the limelight in favor of time in his kitchen, this is someone motivated by the sheer joy of cooking. A near constant presence in his restaurant, Grochowina is the very embodiment of the modern Polish chef: driven, focused and brimming with talent.