Best of Warsaw: Foreign Chef

Nominees:
Andrea Camastra (Senses)
Chanunkan Duangkumma (Naam Thai)
Martin Gimenez Castro (Salto)
Lorenzo Rombustelli (Delizia)
Gonzalo de Salas (Casa Pablo)

Winner

Andrea Camastra

Senses
ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl

It was sometime over summer, and all was quiet outside: the city on the eve of another national holiday. But while the rest of Warsaw was traveling to the lakes or the coastline, the Insider was traveling somewhere even better: heaven. We were in Senses, and what had started as quite an incredible meal had just reached new heights with a swordfish served alongside leek finished with squid ink. Then, out of nowhere, emerged Andrea Camastra carrying a container of billowing sea essence – under a thick fog of swirling ocean mist the rest of the course was concluded in something approaching reverential silence. 

If pushed to name a culinary ‘moment of the year’ it would be that – a beautiful, almost holistic experience that combined art with nature and science with showmanship. It was, in a nutshell, everything that defines Senses. Just as much, it was a determined demonstration of the talents of Andrea Camastra, an Italian-born former model who has worked at Michelin mainstays such as Le ChateauBriand and Le Mirabelle – closer to home, he was one of the unsung foot soldiers behind the original success of Atelier Amaro. Now at the helm of his own kitchen / laboratory, Camastra’s flair is exemplified by way of a menu that – much like its author – is daring, brilliant and completely unpredictable.