Criss-crossed by the city’s main arterial roads – Jerozolimskie and Marszałkowska, an ambitious plan to make the centre more user-friendly is well underway and has already resulted in the launch of pedestrianised gathering points such as Plac Pięciu Rogów. As confusing and overwhelming as the centre can feel at times, it’s here where Warsaw’s big city vibe rings the loudest – despite that, chich, scenic streets such as Lwowska, Foksal and Mokotowska are as easy to find as those that are lined with post-war concrete carbuncles.