tasting menu

Review: Kanapa
There’s no kind way to put it: Ukrainian cuisine has an image problem. Whilst those of us in Warsaw are now used to Polish food being presented with finesse and a flourish, the cuisine of our eastern neighbors remains treated with suspicion: “just peasant food, ’innit?” Well, it doesn’t...
Kanapa

Kanapa

Restaurants 2 May 2018 0

This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge,...
Do Bo Do

Do Bo Do

Restaurants 20 February 2018 0

Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise...
Review: Bistro Pod Sowami
The Area Disclosure: ask me to think of Old Praga and I think of half-wrecked buildings with foul-smelling corridors leading to dark, squalid courtyards. Sure, I’m no longer paranoid that I’ll get my throat cut at every turn, but that’s hardly an endorsement. But the truth is, change is...
Notes: Pod Sowami

Notes: Pod Sowami

Blog 4 December 2017 0

There’s a chance I might never be allowed across the bridge after this confession, but when I think of Old Praga I think of half-wrecked buildings and foul-smelling corridors leading to dank, squalid courtyards. But change is afoot: islands of prosperity are emerging as the area takes stop-start steps...
Review: N31 By Robert Sowa
Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but does...
Notes: Bez Gwiazdek

Notes: Bez Gwiazdek

Blog 9 November 2017 0

Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of recent times has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking...
Notes: Atelier Amaro

Notes: Atelier Amaro

Blog 7 November 2017 0

Ever since opening in 2012, Atelier Amaro has come to be regarded as a point of pilgrimage to which diners flock to worship at the table of Wojciech Amaro. This is not an exaggeration. Awarded what was then Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, Atelier has grown to become...
Notes: Salto

Notes: Salto

Blog 2 November 2017 0

What do you need to know about Salto? The work of Martin Gimenez Castro, this Argentinean chef hit headlines in 2013 when he emerged as victor from the first series of the TV show Top Chef. His restaurant, accessed to the side of the Rialto Hotel, opened a month...
Food Diary: Oct 1-Oct 12

Food Diary: Oct 1-Oct 12

Blog 12 October 2017 0

And so… the story this month: that’s seen a stonking good meal in Strefa, a formal looking eatery with a pristine white-on-white interior. Countless highlights, of which the tuna steak and crème brulee merit special mention – delicate dishes honed for refined palettes. On the other end of the...

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