I do like unexpected surprises, and they don’t get more pleasant than this: a phone call from a friend requiring urgent help to bump up his expense account. “I’m really sorry to have to ask this,” went the conversation, “but I’d really appreciate it if you joined me for the tasting menu at L’Enfant Terrible.” Well, a friend in need is a friend indeed: no problem, pal.

Priced at zł. 199 for a six course tasting menu, it’s probably the best zł. 199 I’ve never spent. I say probably because I’m not entirely sure – and the fault of that is a comprehensive wine list. From what I do remember then I’ve got to tip my hat to a few noteworthy dishes: for instance, ox tongue and horseradish. If it sounds grisly then all I can say is suspend your suspicions long enough to give it a try. And don’t miss the chic and cherry, a chicken liver parfait with a thyme infused creamy glaze, sweet and sour cherries and apple foam. A great night, and one that serves to confirm the rising stock of chef Michał Bryś: here’s a man who thrives on experimentation with a menu that’s as bold as it is playful. So yes, next time you need a hand denting your expense account, bear me in mind.

L’enfant Terrible
ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), eterrible.pl