India Express

Once bruised and isolated, Wola’s rapid transformation into an upcoming business hub has had several consequences: patches of wasteland have been reborn as sparkly corporate compounds, while derelict factories are in the process of being redeveloped as gated residences and upmarket condos. A natural side effect of the ensuing construction and gentrification has been the number of restaurants and bars that have blossomed correspondingly. Perhaps not so expected, however, has been the amount of Indian eateries that have been unleashed as a result – nowhere else in Warsaw will you find a higher headcount of Indian restaurants.

Put simply, there is no room for more. Correction: there is no room for more of the same. See, while the standard is generally acceptable, the problem lies in the ‛sameness’ of all these competing venues: same menus, same recipes, same interiors, same everything. Largely indistinguishable, if you’ve been to one you’ve been to them all. Then, along come India Express to shake up the sheets: open from 8 a.m. on weekdays, the USP here is a breakfast menu that opens doors you didn’t think existed: a portal that leads down unexpected paths lined with addictive big flavors…
Now I’ll have to be honest here, breakfast is not something I usually eat – at least, not out here. Try as they might, it’s just something the locals can’t seem to master: cottage cheese and a soggy Frankfurter? I’d really rather not.

Fortunately though, where the Poles have failed the Indians haven’t. To them, breakfast is more than just a one dimensional procedure through which they must solemnly file past. On the contrary, it’s a carnival of color and taste. Over sips of milky masala chai, I watch in awe as the table swells and heaves as dishes are delivered: there is masala dosa that’s crisp and fragrant; cherry tomatoes that are gently spiced; and fresh cucumber sprinkled with chili and cumin. Complementing those come omelets with seasoned veg and vegetable parathas.

There’s a messy street food-style to it all that’s a pleasure to the sight – within moments the table has become a canvas of unforeseen tastes and aromas. The only improvement you could wish for? That’s the arrival of gooey Sri Lankan chili fried eggs and a chicken parantha served with a cooling raita – but guess what, say the word and that’s what emerges. Offering considerably more than their rivals, India Express have landed at precisely the right time – just when you thought Warsaw’s Indian fad had curved out, along come this mob to remind you, actually, no it hasn’t…

India Express Wola
ul. Sienna 87