Reinvigorated by a sprinkling of brasseries and bistros, what was once a sickly-looking no-go street has transformed in recent years courtesy of a regeneration plan that has given it the kind of swagger only wealth can bring.

Underpinning it all, Kieliszki na Próżnej, a neo-bistro that, to all intents and purposes, has can be regarded as an ambassador of its genre.

So named after the 1,116 glasses that hang precariously over the bar, it’s a comforting place in which to dilute the autumn blues.

Signposted by a spectacularly outsized doodle by artist Mariusz Tarkawian, it looks slick and cosmopolitan whilst never overbearing. That despite a crowd that most definitely belongs to the higher echelons of Warsaw life.

Owned by the same group responsible for Butchery & Wine, you can bet your bottom dollar that meat is treated seriously. The beef fillet, therefore, is a sensible order, and meets all expectations.

Desert, meanwhile, consists of goat cheesecake, pear in honey and almond cake: more please!

An influx of customers leaves service stretched to max, with waiting time for the bill exceeding well over 30 minutes: a major irritation that leaves a cloud over what’s been a highly enjoyable meal. Nonetheless, you understand Kieliszki’s continued success, and occasional blips aside, there’s much to recommend.

Kieliszki na Próżnej
ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl