Notes: Pink Lobster
Swank and stylish. The door clatters shut to divulge a long, narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue.
An upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, the flawless presentation is reflective of a kitchen that values both clarity and creativity.
The sea bass ceviche is an example of this, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a contemporary work of sculpture. And then there’s the octopus, a sexy coil of sea monster given a glorious vibrancy thanks to a preceding beetroot bath. Orange sauce, blobs of mango and a flush of greens complete the combination.
We’d Return For…
Modestly named ‘Cream’, this soup comes ceremoniously poured table-side by a serious, white-gloved waiter. Featuring tomatoes, red curry, shrimp and coconut milk, it’s a gentle whirl of delicate, nuanced tastes – there’s even a light snap of spice to keep the attention.
Pass our apologies to Bambi’s nearest and, erm, dearest, but the roe deer is immaculate: served with herb moss, black salsify, morel and demi-glace, the meat is lean and tender and comes the right hint of pink.
And Don’t Miss
The plan had been to share one between two. But then we ordered another and another after that. Whoever is doing desserts deserves a big hand for these are stunning pieces of work that warrant recognition.
The standout is the ‘apple’, a dish that cracks open to disgorge a variety of contents you never expected: salty caramel, cool cream and a baked apple inside.
ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl
(Words & Photos: AW)
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